FPV Motor Rewind: Repair Burnt Motors Instead of Replacing

You are mid-session at your favourite flying field, the footage is looking amazing, and then — a hard punch into the ground, the smell of burnt coils, and one motor spinning limply. In India, where genuine high-performance FPV motors can cost ₹800–₹3,000 per unit and replacements might take 5–10 days to arrive from online stores, throwing away a burnt motor feels like a very expensive option.

The good news: rewinding an FPV brushless motor is a skill any technically inclined pilot can learn. With basic tools, magnet wire, and about an hour of careful work, you can bring a burnt stator back to full performance at a fraction of the cost of a new motor. This guide covers everything from diagnosing whether a rewind is worth attempting to testing the finished motor on the bench.

1. How Brushless FPV Motors Work

Before you can repair something, you need to understand how it works. A brushless DC motor (BLDC) has two main parts: the stator (the stationary inner part with copper windings around iron teeth) and the rotor (the spinning outer bell with permanent magnets).

The flight controller drives the ESC, which alternates current through the three phase wires (A, B, C) to create a rotating magnetic field. The permanent magnets in the rotor chase this rotating field, causing the motor bell to spin. The speed is controlled by how quickly the ESC switches the phases.

The key specification is KV rating — motor RPM per volt with no load. A 2400KV motor on 4S (16.8V) spins at approximately 40,320 RPM at zero load. This is determined by two factors: the number of turns of wire per tooth (more turns = lower KV) and the wire gauge (thicker wire = more current capacity).

When a motor burns out, it is almost always the stator windings that fail — the copper wire overheats, the enamel insulation melts, adjacent wires short to each other, and you get a phase-to-phase short that causes the characteristic burnt smell and loss of torque.

2. Diagnosing a Burnt Motor

Before opening the motor, run these diagnostic tests:

Visual Inspection

Look at the motor wires where they exit the stator. Blackened or melted insulation near the bottom of the stator is a classic sign of winding failure. Also check the motor bell for heat discolouration (blue/purple on the magnets indicates sustained overheating).

Resistance Test

Use a multimeter on resistance (Ω) mode. Test between each pair of phase wires: A-B, B-C, A-C. On a healthy motor, all three readings should be nearly identical (typically 50–200mΩ for FPV motors). An inconsistent reading (one pair significantly higher or lower) indicates a partial short or open winding.

Motor Spin Test

With the motor disconnected, spin the bell by hand. It should spin smoothly with even, rhythmic magnetic detent clicks as poles pass the stator. Rough, jerky, or scraping rotation indicates bearing failure (a separate issue from winding burns).

Insulation Test

If you have a high-voltage tester, check resistance between phase wires and the motor body/stator iron. Healthy insulation reads infinite (OL on most meters at 20MΩ range). Any measurable reading indicates insulation breakdown — the winding needs replacement.

3. When Is a Rewind Worth Attempting?

Be honest about what kind of damage you are dealing with:

Good candidates for rewind:

• Burnt phase wire insulation with intact stator iron and motor bell
• One shorted phase (the other two phases still measure correctly)
• Overheated windings on expensive motors (T-Motor, Hobbywing, Avon) where the hardware cost justifies the repair time
• Discontinued motors where replacement parts are no longer available

Not worth rewinding:

• Cracked or physically damaged stator iron — the iron laminations will have eddy current losses that make the motor run hot
• Delaminated stator (the iron stamping layers separate during a crash) — the stator cannot hold windings properly
• Damaged motor bell or cracked magnet segments — a new motor is safer
• Budget motors under ₹400 where your time is worth more than the motor
• Failed bearings only — this is a bearing replacement, not a rewind

4. Tools and Materials You Need

You do not need expensive specialist tools to rewind an FPV motor:

Essential Tools

• Motor disassembly pin punch: Or use a 3mm bolt and pliers to push the stator shaft out
• Multimeter with milliohm resolution: For resistance testing
• Fine-tip soldering iron: 350–380°C for phase soldering
• High-temperature silver solder: Or standard 63/37 rosin-core solder
• Wire strippers: For stripping enamel from wire ends (or use fine sandpaper)
• Calipers: For measuring existing wire gauge

Materials

• Magnet wire (AWG 24–30 depending on motor size): Available from electronics components stores. Most FPV motors use AWG 26–28 (0.35–0.4mm diameter)
• Thread/floss for securing windings: Non-conductive
• Winding lacquer or varnish (Humiseal or similar): Seals and protects finished windings
• Acetone or motor cleaning solution: To remove old lacquer from stator iron
• Kapton tape: Insulates stator tooth edges before winding

5. Motor Disassembly

FPV motors typically use a C-clip or press-fit shaft to hold the motor bell. The disassembly procedure varies by motor brand:

Standard Disassembly

1. Remove the motor from its mount and unsolder the phase wires from the ESC
2. Use a C-clip remover or a pin punch to remove the retaining clip from the bottom of the shaft (visible when looking at the open bottom of the motor)
3. The motor bell lifts straight off — the magnets will try to pull it back, so use steady upward force
4. The stator is either threaded onto the mount or press-fitted. Unscrew or use a punch to push the shaft out from the top
5. You now have the bare stator in hand

Important: Keep the motor bell magnets away from tools, metal filings, and other motors. Re-magnetisation is possible but expensive. Store the bell in a zip-lock bag.

6. Stripping the Old Windings

Before you can apply new wire, the old burnt windings must be completely removed:

1. Heat the stator gently with a heat gun at 150°C to soften the winding lacquer. Do not use a torch — the stator iron laminations are delicate and direct flame can warp them.
2. Use tweezers or a dental pick to peel away the old wire. It often comes off in a continuous strip if the motor was not catastrophically burnt.
3. For stubborn wire cemented with varnish, soak the stator in acetone for 10–15 minutes to dissolve the lacquer.
4. Once bare, inspect each stator tooth carefully under good lighting. The edges of the tooth tips often have sharp burrs from stamping — use very fine sandpaper (1000 grit) to smooth them. Sharp edges will cut through the new wire insulation during winding.
5. Clean the stator with IPA and allow it to dry completely before winding.

7. Understanding Winding Specifications

This is the most technical part of a motor rewind. Getting the winding specification wrong gives you a motor that runs at the wrong KV, overheats, or delivers poor torque.

Key Parameters

• Number of turns (N): How many times the wire wraps around each stator tooth. More turns = lower KV, more torque, less RPM.
• Wire gauge (AWG): Thicker wire (lower AWG number) handles more current but requires fewer turns to fill the slot space.
• Winding scheme: How the turns on different teeth connect to form phases. Most FPV motors use a 12N14P (12 stator teeth, 14 pole magnets) with a DLRK winding scheme.

How to Calculate Turns for Target KV

The relationship between turns and KV is approximately linear and inverse. If the original motor has 7 turns per tooth at 2300KV, you can estimate that 5 turns will give approximately 3220KV (7/5 × 2300). Use this as a starting point and measure actual KV with a motor analyzer after winding.

For most FPV motors:

• 2300–2700KV race motors: 7–8 turns of AWG 28
• 1700–2300KV mid-KV motors: 9–11 turns of AWG 26–27
• 1000–1700KV efficiency motors: 12–15 turns of AWG 24–26

Finding Original Specs

Before stripping the motor, photograph the windings from multiple angles and count the visible turns on one tooth. If the motor is completely destroyed, search online for “[motor brand model] winding spec” or check the FPV community forums where many motor rewinds are documented.

8. Step-by-Step Winding Process

Winding is a manual skill that improves with practice. Your first rewind will take 60–90 minutes; by your fifth, you will do it in under 30 minutes.

Preparation

1. Cut twelve equal lengths of magnet wire — one for each stator tooth. Length = (turns × tooth circumference) + 20% slack + 5cm for connection tails. A rough formula for a 22xx motor: turns × 8cm + 10cm per coil.
2. Apply Kapton tape to the inner edges of each stator tooth to prevent wire cutting on sharp lamination edges.
3. Identify the winding pattern on a printed DLRK diagram — print this out and keep it on the bench.

Winding Each Tooth

1. Begin with tooth 1. Pass one end of the wire (leave 4cm tail) through the slot adjacent to the tooth, around the tooth tip, and through the slot on the other side. This completes one turn.
2. Continue winding in the same direction for your target number of turns. Keep each turn parallel and flat — cross-wound coils have more resistance and generate more heat.
3. On the final turn, leave a 4cm tail on the exit side, then secure the coil with a small piece of Kapton or a thread tie.
4. Repeat for all 12 teeth, following the DLRK pattern for winding direction (some teeth wind clockwise, others counter-clockwise — the diagram tells you which).

Connecting the Phases

In the DLRK scheme for a 12N14P motor:

• Phase A: Teeth 1, 2, 7, 8
• Phase B: Teeth 3, 4, 9, 10
• Phase C: Teeth 5, 6, 11, 12

Connect the tails of each group together (twisting the ends), then connect the three-phase junction (star/Y configuration: all three non-output tails connected together at the centre).

9. Soldering the Phase Connections

Enamel-coated magnet wire cannot be soldered until the enamel is removed from the wire ends:

1. Use fine sandpaper (800 grit) to sand the enamel off the last 8mm of each wire tail. The bare copper should be bright and shiny.
2. Alternatively, hold the wire end in solder at 400°C — the heat burns the enamel while the solder wets the copper. This requires a powerful iron and solder with high-activity flux.
3. Twist the wires of each phase group together firmly, then apply solder to create a solid joint.
4. For the Y-junction (centre star point), twist and solder all three non-output tails together.
5. Insulate all solder joints with heat-shrink or Kapton tape. These joints cannot touch each other or the stator iron.

10. Bench Testing Your Rewound Motor

Never test a freshly rewound motor by simply connecting it to a drone — verify it on the bench first:

Pre-Power Tests

• Phase resistance check: All three A-B, B-C, A-C readings should be within 5% of each other and match your target (calculate: wire resistance per metre × wire length used)
• Insulation test: Resistance from any phase to the stator iron should be infinite (open circuit)
• Turn count verification: Spin the bell by hand and count the magnetic detents per revolution — should equal the number of pole pairs (7 for a 14-pole motor)

First Power-Up

1. Connect to an ESC and flight controller or a servo tester set to minimum throttle
2. Connect a battery through a current limiter (a series resistor, e.g., 1 ohm 10W, protects against short-circuit damage on first power-up)
3. Slowly increase throttle. The motor should spin up smoothly without cogging or stuttering
4. Run at 20% throttle for 30 seconds, then feel the stator for heat. Slight warmth is normal; very hot within 30 seconds indicates a partial short — inspect again
5. After confirming smooth operation, remove the current limiter and run at 50% throttle for 60 seconds. Check heat levels again

KV Measurement

Use a motor KV tester (or calculate from RPM measured with a tachometer app and known voltage) to verify your rewound motor’s KV matches the target. A 10% variance is acceptable; beyond that, review your turn count.

11. Tuning KV After Rewind

After a successful rewind, your ESC and flight controller may need adjustments:

• Motor direction: Swapping any two phase wires reverses motor direction — swap if wrong
• Timing: Higher KV motors benefit from slightly higher ESC timing (try 2° increments); lower KV motors run cleaner at medium timing
• Blackbox analysis: Log a flight and compare P-term noise between the rewound motor and a healthy original. If the rewound motor shows more noise, the winding has more vibration which means physical inspection of turn uniformity is needed
• Run-in period: New windings benefit from a gentle break-in — 5–10 short flight sessions at 60% throttle maximum before full-power freestyle use. The lacquer fully cures and settles under thermal cycling.

T-Motor A10-KV120-CCW Modular Propulsion System

Premium T-Motor propulsion system with precision windings and robust construction. When a rewind is not feasible, this is the kind of quality motor worth investing in.

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T-Motor A10-KV120-CW Modular Propulsion System

CW variant of the T-Motor A10 modular propulsion system. Built for reliability and performance in demanding drone applications where consistent power delivery is critical.

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35A V2.1 2-5S 4-in-1 Brushless ESC

Reliable 4-in-1 ESC for FPV drone builds. After rewinding your motor, a quality ESC ensures proper commutation and smooth power delivery for optimal performance.

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Frequently Asked Questions